Image from here
Another amazing climbing day with Andrea. We go for "Galadriel" in Rätikon (CH), a nice and long multi-pitch that keeps us busy for the whole day. After some kilometers of dirt road we park the car as close as possible to the wall, hike up and finally we start climbing at.. who knows.. late in the morning!
The route is challenging (6c+) but not impossible, except one single step that leaves us puzzled.. see the pitch-by-pitch description:
- We actually start climbing on the route on the left, and only after completing the pitch we realize that we are not where we wanted to be! Anyway, the first pitch of Galadriel is not particularly interesting.
- Climb a nice crag (6b?) for some meters before switching to a slab (6b+) and testing your adherence skills
- Nice pitch, I lead! The hards steps are at the beginning, then it gets slightly easier. 6b+ or max 6c.
- Easy pitch, rugged terrain.
- Long pitch, but not particularly difficult. 6a+ maybe.
- A bit harder than the previous one, but also shorter. Andrea leads.
- Start with a nice crag, not difficult but very enjoyable. The hardest steps are at the end, when you have to go all the way to the left, over the small roof, and then right again. Not easy!
- Andrea leads the hardest pitch (6c+). It doesn't seem to be particularly difficult, though, except maybe some steps at the end (just before the relay).
- A long traverse to the right. I lead and after the first bolt I immediately climb up.. big mistake! And I pay for it with a (not-so-small) fall! I then tried again and the second time I stayed much lower, went a bit more to the right and finally up to the second bold. Much easier! Then continue traversing to the right.. and never go up until you are under the relay (I tried to go up too early a second time and.. I had to go back down!). Overall not difficult, just stay low!
- Continue traversing towards the right. Clipping the first 2 bolts is somehow impossible (they are very high), so be prepared to come up with some fancy moves (e.g. climb up, clip, climb down..). After the first 3 bolts the pitch becomes a bit easier.
- Easy and not very interesting.
Andrea on the 10th pitch
From the last relay you can rappel down (diagonally, towards the left when looking at the wall) for 40m, then down for 20m (or so), and you will find yourself at the end of the 8th pitch. From there, keep rappelling down along the route.
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