Multi-pitch climbing - "Weg der Freunde" (Nauders - AU)


.

Image from BergSteigen.com

Nice multi-pitch (equipped with bolts) close to Resia pass.
Once again, the amazing BergSteigen.com has all the info about the climb, including how to get there and where to park (here: 46°54'49.6"N 10°29'34.4"E).

Just some minor comments about the route:
  • To get to the starting point you will have to walk up between the trees just after the second tunnel (see description), maybe 20 meters after the exit. After a couple of minutes between the trees, you will cross in the direction of the tunnel and then up again (you will see the bolts on the wall.. there are many!).
  • The route is very well equipped. Tons of bolts everywhere, maybe even too many :)
  • We used a single 80m rope, which is enough also to abseil down. I think 70m would also be fine. The only drawback is that you have to abseil down pitch 7 and 6 separately, so you'll have to stop at the tree on the left, which is slightly out of the vertical line.
  • Overall, a nice multi-pitch, but nothing special. For us it was particularly convenient given the position (along the road) and the short approach. Good for a half-day exercise.
About the pitches:
  1. Easy, but very brittle rock that makes it a bit harder (you never know what you can trust!). I'd say 5a.
  2. All good. Still 5a-5b.
  3. This is probably the hardest pitch, a nice slab without amazing holds. Doable and nice. 5c+ or max 6a.
  4. First step slightly harder (exposed, 5c), then nice and easy (<5b)
  5. Quick and easy (<5b)
  6. First steps a bit harder (5b-5c), but totally doable, then easy. As anchor point (at the end of the pitch) you'll find a little rope around a tree on the left.
  7. Nice slab, not really hard (5c).

Your Reply